KIDILL presented its Fall/Winter 2026/27 collection, “HEAVEN”, during Paris Fashion Week on January 20, 2026, in Paris, France.
For Fall/Winter 2026/27, Hiroaki Sueyasu makes the deliberate choice of Silence. By stripping away performative staging, he allows garments and bodies to breathe, revealing within a simplified stage the essence of his designs.
Designer Hiroaki Sueyasu
At its core, KIDILL has always been rooted in punk. Sueyasu’s gaze remains fixed on contradiction: chance and inevitability, chaos and stillness, audacity and fragility, cuteness and hardcore. Rather than resolving these oppositions, he insists on their coexistence. Through clothing, conflicting values collide and assert themselves. For Sueyasu, fashion becomes a means of survival an intimate way to steady the mind and recover balance within chaos.
A resilient yet flexible spirit. Resistance towards preconceived ideas of justice. Cute aesthetics infused with hardcore intensity. Sueyasu holds onto a fragile purity that is at risk, an innocence embedded in boyhood and girlhood. It is a naivety closely tied to inner conflict. Instead of calculated beauty, KIDILL’s utopia depends on raw contradiction, left visible and unresolved.
In the Fall/Winter 2026/27 collection, these tensions are distilled into individual garments. Smoky, muted color palettes are confronted with black silicone rubber distressing. A collaborative MA-1 with ALPHA INDUSTRIES wraps rigid military construction in soft tulle, softening the boundary between femininity and aggression. Artworks by Trevor Brown, an artist deeply rooted in Tokyo’s underground scene for over three decades, appear throughout the collection: oversized devil and angel wings that engulf the body, sharply curved mods coats, and layers of tulle cutting across graphic imagery of girls. Together, they give physical form to opposition.
Cut-out fabrics, quilted skirts, traditional tartan checks, belt-bound bondage details, safety pins and metal embellish- ments, piping that traces the garments’ contours. Fabrics range from jacquard weaves to reflective materials. Punk symbols, intuitively understood by Sueyasu, are pushed to excess most notably in the UMBRO collaboration, where more than 40 adjustable points are embedded across panel transitions. At the same time, ongoing collaboration with teams skilled in bespoke tailoring allows technical refinement and rebellion to coexist.
The cultural turbulence and impulses Sueyasu has absorbed everyday scenes from London, underground chaos, early 1990s Tokyo, and lingering cyberpunk imagery have always driven KIDILL forward. When creativity shaped by personal memory intersects with the present moment, encounters between seemingly incompatible forces emerge. Sueyasu intentionally distances himself from sophistication, continuing to embrace the strength of what remains unfinished.
“HEAVEN” does not refer to a conventional utopia.
“It represents liberation from taboo and oppression, and a questioning of social norms,” Sueyasu explains. “It functions as a metaphor in which opposing states, child and adult, come together.”
Fall/Winter 2026/27 clearly reasserts the core of what KIDILL has built to date, presenting a vision of freedom and an unfiltered future. Destructive outcomes and unreal fantasies, these, too, can exist as a form of heaven.
KIDILL × ALPHA INDUSTRIES
An icon of military wear, ALPHA INDUSTRIES’ all-black MA-1 is reimagined through KIDILL’s punk perspective. By deconstructing a universally recognized symbol, its underlying character is brought into the foreground. Against the rigid masculinity of military clothing, black tulle envelops the shoulders and sleeves creating a deliberate contradiction. Hard and soft, masculinity and femininity are held together within a single garment, reflecting the central tension of the FW26 collection.
The body features patch embroidery of artworks by British artist Trevor Brown, who has been active in Tokyo’s underground scene for over 30 years. In addition, a triple collaboration with HIZUME introduces an artistic headpiece that reconstructs the MA-1 as a sculptural form.
KIDILL × UMBRO
For Hiroaki Sueyasu, UMBRO represents more than sportswear; it is closely tied to British music culture and the history of punk communities that embraced it. This marks the second collaboration between KIDILL and UMBRO, following Spring/Summer 2025.
While preserving the functional pattern-making of sportswear, more than 40 adjusters are integrated throughout the garment, allowing the wearer to freely alter the silhouette. Clothing does not dictate the body; the body actively reshapes the clothing.
Extended hoods that fall to the waist create a distorted, almost ritualistic silhouette, echoing Trevor Brown’s tarot inspired artwork scattered throughout the FW26 collection.
Trevor Brown Born in London in 1959, Trevor Brown has produced radical and confrontational work since the late 1980s. After relocating to Tokyo in 1993, he has spent over three decades immersed in Japan’s underground culture. Influenced by this environment while refining a singular visual language, Brown’s work exists where grotesque beauty, taboo, and seduction converge. His collaboration with KIDILL is a natural meeting, shaped by a shared punk ethos and the pull of Tokyo’s underground scene.
CREDITS:
DESIGNER HIROAKI SUEYASU
SHOW DIRECTOR @hoshinamichio
STYLIST @tatsuyashimada1984
HAIR STYLIST @kuniokohzaki
MAKE-UP ARTIST @canakoxx
SHOW MUSIC @yuzuha.jp @albinosound REMIX
CASTING @takaresaka @josemaria_________ *ALTER
LIGHTING RYO KAWAMURA
PRODUCTION @devisok
COLLECTION PHOTOS @kotsuchiya
BS PHOTOS @kyoheihattori @ikaspart
COLLECTION MOVIE ANDREA ANGELINI
SHOW COORDINATOR @azusanozak
WRITER @ta2yayamaguchi
ARTWORK @babyart
COLLABORATION @alphaindustries @alphaindustries_japan @umbrojp @umbrofrance @hizume.official @kidslovegaite @kirintailors @createclair @reveriereverie__ @_deadly_sweet
SHOES SUPPORT @kidslovegaite
INTERNATIONAL PR @totem_fashion
JAPAN PR @sakaspr
KIDILL
www.kidill.jp | @kidill
All images courtesy of KIDILL.
Tags: Accessories, ALPHA INDUSTRIES, apparel, artisanal, Autumn, clothing, collection, contemporary design, craftsmanship, design, designer spotlight, designers, Fall, Fall/Winter, fashion, France, Hiroaki Sueyasu, KIDILL, menswear, Paris, Paris Fashion Week, runway, runway show, Trevor Brown, UMBRO, Winter, womenswear
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