Faithful to its heritage of craftsmanship, H. Moser & Cie. has reinterpreted its iconic fumé dials by highlighting the ancestral art of enameling, bringing a dash of color to Haute Horlogerie with the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel watches.
The Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel by H. Moser & Cie.
The Magic of Fumé, the Brilliance of Enamel: This Alchemy Bears H. Moser & Cie.’s Signature
Revisited with a resolutely contemporary approach, this expertise gives rise to an original, bright and vibrant shade, the hammered texture of which creates a captivating play of light. Housed in a 40-mm steel case and powered by an HMC 201 automatic movement, the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel combines the timeless elegance of a three-hand watch with a bold aesthetic and powerful charisma.
An absolute classic in watchmaking, the three-hand watch demands impeccable technical mastery, where every detail counts. To stand out, the aesthetics must attain perfection, achieving a perfect balance: immaculate proportions, harmonious forms, high-end finishes. With the Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel model, H. Moser & Cie. has turned this timeless elegance on its head by adding a daring touch: a dial that radiates an unprecedented depth of color, produced using a reinvented enamelling technique.
True to its unique approach, the Manufacture has revisited the ancestral art of “Grand Feu” enamelling to bring it in line with contemporary tastes, thereby preserving this precious technique while reinterpreting it in its own way. The process begins with a white gold base on which a textured motif is engraved, creating a hammered effect. Then six enamel pigments, all in different colors, are carefully washed and finely crushed before being meticulously applied in a gradation to create the dial’s bright hue. The master enameller spends hours adjusting each shade with extreme precision, ensuring the colors blend harmoniously together during successive firings, with no pixelation. A dial must be fired multiple times to create H. Moser & Cie.’s unique signature fumé effect. The result is striking: an intense depth, a texture enhanced by the transparency of the “Grand Feu” enamel, and a fascinating color, called Purple Haze, which is particularly difficult to achieve. This is a true work of watchmaking art that the Manufacture has chosen to let express itself freely and in complete purity, with no logo or index.
Beating at the heart of the 40-mm steel case is a 100% Swiss mechanical Manufacture movement: the HMC 201 calibre. This automatic movement is equipped with a regulating organ manufactured by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG, and comprises a double hairspring, instantly identifiable thanks to the purple seconds hand and the blue balance bridge. Thanks to its architecture that supports openness, the watch components are revealed through partially skeletonised bridges, accentuated by an ultra-modern anthracite grey finish. This opening elegantly allows the wheels of the gear train, central seconds and bidirectional automatic winding system to be viewed, while the rotor has also been openworked so as not to obstruct the view of the movement, which still guarantees a power reserve of at least 3 days. The timepiece is set off to stunning effect by a purple kudu leather strap, whose velvety texture and deep hue extend the intensity of the dial, adding the final touch to this powerfully bold creation.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – Endeavour Centre Seconds Concept Purple Enamel
Reference 1201-1200, steel model, Purple Haze fumé dial, purple kudu leather strap.
- Case
- Steel
- Diameter: 40.0 mm
- Height: 11.2 mm
- Sapphire crystal and see-through case back
- Crown adorned with an “M”
- Dial
- “Grand Feu” enamel Purple Haze fumé with hammered texture
- Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
- Purple central seconds hand
- Movement
- HMC 201 automatic calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 Vib/h
- 27 jewels
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Solid 18-carat gold oscillating weight, engraved
- Power reserve: minimum of 3 days
- Hacking seconds
- Original Straumann® double hairspring
- Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes
- Partially skeletonised bridges
- Functions
- Hours and minutes
- Central seconds
- Strap
- Hand-stitched purple kudu leather strap
- Steel pin buckle
The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel by H. Moser & Cie.
With the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. has taken the art of Grand Feu enamelling to its apex, bringing radical modernity to an age-old skill.
Reinventing its iconic fumé aesthetic, the Manufacture has brought to life a dial of striking chromatic intensity, capturing the light with every movement of the wrist in a captivating visual interplay. This beauty sits within a 40 mm 5N red gold case housing an HMC 805 tourbillon Manufacture calibre, a perfect marriage of watchmaking technology and refined aesthetics.
Behind its apparent understatement, the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel embodies uninhibited refinement. Far removed from convention, it focuses on absolute purity: no logo, no indices, just pure chromatic intensity; a weightless flying tourbillon, and a dial that mesmerises with its depth, in a new colour named, simply, Turquoise. Expert craftsmen follow a meticulous process to obtain this unique shade: a white gold base is engraved with a hammered motif before being covered with several successive layers of translucent enamel, applied by hand with extreme precision. Three different pigments are used to create the famous fumé gradient effect that has become the signature of H. Moser & Cie. Each kiln firing fuses the pigments without ever altering their intensity. The result is a luminous gradient, oscillating between depth and transparency.
At the heart of this timepiece beats the calibre HMC 805, an automatic movement equipped with a oneminute flying tourbillon fitted with a double hairspring. Thanks to this pair of matched hairsprings, produced by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG, the movement of the point of gravity on each spring when it expands is corrected, significantly improving accuracy and isochronism in continual pursuit of perfection. In addition, the paired hairsprings also reduce the effect of friction normally experienced with a single hairspring, improving isochronism even further. Designed to reveal the full beauty of the watch’s architecture, the HMC 805 movement plays with transparency, with openworked bridges and a sophisticated anthracite finish offering a bird’s-eye view of the internal mechanics. Its skeletonised red gold rotor ensures efficient winding while allowing the entire movement to be admired.
The Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel comes with a grey ostrich leather strap, a subtle choice that enhances the richness of the dial while underlining the watch’s radical minimalism. With this creation, H. Moser & Cie. once again demonstrates that fine watchmaking is not about mechanical precision alone: it is about perception, texture, light and emotion.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Turquoise Enamel
Reference 1805-0400, 5N red gold model, Turquoise fumé dial, grey ostrich leather strap.
- Case
- 5N red gold
- Diameter: 40.0 mm
- Height: 11.2 mm
- Sapphire crystal and see-through case-back
- Crown adorned with an “M”
- Dial
- Turquoise fumé “Grand Feu” enamel with hammered texture
- Leaf-shaped hour and minute hands
- Movement
- HMC 805 automatic Manufacture calibre
- Diameter: 32.0 mm or 14 1/4 lignes
- Height: 5.5 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
- Automatic bi-directional pawl winding system
- Skeletonised oscillating weight in 18-carat red gold with engraved H. Moser & Cie. logo
- Power reserve: minimum 3 days
- Original double hairspring
- One-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock with skeletonised bridge
- Anthracite finish with Moser double stripes
- Partially skeletonised bridges
- Functions
- Hours and minutes
- Strap
- Hand-stitched grey ostrich leather
- 5N red gold clasp, engraved with the H. Moser logo
H. Moser & Cie.
https://h-moser.com | @moserwatches
H. Moser & Cie. was created by Heinrich Moser in 1828. Based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall, it currently employs 120 people, has developed 20 in-house calibres to date and produces around 4,000 watches per annum. Through its sister company Precision Engineering AG (PEAG), H. Moser & Cie. manufactures parts such as regulating organs and balance-springs, which are used for its own production as well as to supply its partner companies. Independent company incorporated into Moser Watch Holding in 2012, Precision Engineering AG specialises in watch components for escapements, from their initial design to the production of a quality product ready to be integrated into the watch movement it must regulate. H. Moser & Cie. is honoured to have a Moser family member with the company as Honorary Chairman and President of the Heinrich and Henri Moser Foundation. The aim of the Moser Foundation, created by one of Heinrich Moser’s descendants, is to keep the family history alive and seek out antique pieces for the Moser Museum, located in Charlottenfels Manor, Heinrich Moser’s family home. With its substantial watchmaking expertise and highly acclaimed experience in the sector, MELB Holding holds shares in H. Moser & Cie., Hautlence and Agenhor SA. MELB Holding is an independent family group, based in the heart of the legendary Vallée de Joux.
All images courtesy of H. Moser & Cie.
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