Timeless Jacquard | Summary of the Interfilière Paris January 2016 Conference

Organized and led by the journalist-consultant Dominique DEMOINET-HOSTE 

In an era when technology is evolving at hyper-speed, jacquard seems to endure beyond fashion, beyond revolutions.

Ironically, jacquard has never been so on-trend, so modern, so different, nor so present in the market. It is used in lingerie with circular knits and motifs with raised or perforated effects, and created on linear looms featuring warp knit, or on new types of electronically-driven looms that are now capable of sketching in 3D.

Jacquard knows how to come out on top, whether it’s through grabbing market share from printed fabrics, or reinjecting new energy into the swimwear market with more technical knits.

After two centuries of history, what can we expect from the jacquards of today? What are the new jacquard techniques? How can it be used? With what types of yarns? To create what type of effects? And to serve which markets?

Featuring:

◊ Martin HERMANN, CEO of WILLY HERMANN, Designer of the Year;
◊ Agnès COLOMBET – Fashion Division Manager for SATAB;
◊ Florence BOST – Designer and Founder of SABLE CHAUD;
◊ Fabio CESCON – Sales and Marketing Manager for MAGLIFICIO RIPA;
◊ Jean-Pierre GUINET – Design and Marketing Consultant at MG CREATION;
◊ Jean-Laurent PERRIN – CEO, LES TISSAGES PERRIN;
◊ Massimiliano DENNA, Managing Director of BRUGNOLI GIOVANNI.

From the Origins of Jacquard Weaving Machines to Today’s Knit Developments

A brief historical recap offered Jean-Laurent Perrin (Tissages Perrin) the opportunity to underline the two major evolutions which marked the key stages in the development of the jacquard loom and the corresponding technology first initiated by Lyon silk-workers, two centuries ago: the transformation of the weaving loom and the mechanical processes themselves, and the introduction of computer technologies at the start of the millennium, which revolutionized the definition of jacquard patterns.

“The arrival of Lycra stretch yarns in the 1980s was a major innovation, which allowed for a significant increase in the use of jacquard fabrics in the lingerie market, including our stretch silks featuring refined motifs,” added Jean-Laurent Perrin, who pointed out that jacquard is, first and foremost, a ‘revolutionary’ technique which continues to offer producers a way of combining different materials, creating different finishes, experimenting with weaves, shiny and dull effects, fabric hand-feels. Florence Bost (Sable Chaud) underlined the impressive modernity of jacquards by explaining how she used this technology to develop a highly technical sound jacquard in 2010. It was woven as a double thickness, with pockets into which speakers were inserted, and connected to an electronic circuit which broadcast the sound. “In this case, we used a multi-ply copper wire, twisted with a silk yarn,” she explained, before adding that while jacquard is ideal for creating raised surfaces, it also offers new potential with regard to formats and linking large-scale motifs (impossible on shaft looms, thus limiting pattern repeats).

Dominique Demoinet-Hoste then turned to the knit specialists, Willy Hermann, Maglificio Ripa and Brugnoli, to discuss the crossover potential of jacquard, which is also very popular in knits. Fabio Cescon (Ripa) mainly insisted on the impressive flexibility of use and versatility of jacquard techniques in the knit sector. “Thanks to computerized machines, we can now tell each individual needle what to do. That gives us an extraordinary range of creative possibilities, whether with regard to motifs, details or repeats,” enthused Fabio Cescon. Jacquard is therefore omnipresent in all the collections presented by Ripa (intimates, ready-to-wear, sportswear and beachwear) with a wide range of patterns, effects and colours: “It enables us to offer this touch of fantasy that the market wants to see, which allows us European producers to differentiate ourselves by offering European inspiration and creativity to compete against basic products. Mastering the jacquard technique is essential for producing high- stretch 3-dimensional knits, making the most of Lycra yarns, which completely revolutionized our range. Unless you control it properly, it can affect the appearance of the jacquard.” French and Italian companies have this level of experience and know-how, acquired over time and handed down from one generation to the next.

Jacquard’s Exceptional Potential

Martin Hermann (Willy Hermann) was keen to underline that jacquards have always been a permanent fixture in the Austrian knit specialist’s collections. “We seem to be the only company that uses so many different jacquard techniques and takes advantage of all the new technologies available to us, in circular, warp and seamless knitting or double tricot. Jacquard has always played an essential role in our collections and new products since it’s the only technology open to so many different interpretations.” Having established a reputation for its extra-fine 60-gauge knits (Superfine), Willy Hermann holds the undisputed record for the finest jacquard motif with very precise lines which are comparable, in flat jacquard motifs, to those of prints.

Massimiliano Denna (Brugnoli) then explained that jacquards have become an essential feature of its collections over the last 30 years. The Italian company has even been offering a dedicated collection known simply as ‘Jacquard’ for several years now. “We thought carefully before investing in second-hand machines that we then renovated. When the technological innovations arrived in the 1980s, we were ready to develop an entire collection,” remembered Massimiliano Denna. The aim of this collection, updated and expanded each year, is to demonstrate the range of different designs and effects available from jacquards. Brugnoli favours exclusive developments with its clients. “We focus on finding new solutions, in terms of fabrics, as well as design and performance, with specific stretch criteria to offer the right solution for the client,” he added.

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SOURCE: Interfilière www.interfiliere.com, Photos Courtesy of Interfilière Paris.