Iris Van Herpen’s Couture Collection at Paris Fashion Week; ‘Aeriform’ examines the nature and anatomy of air and the idea of airborne materiality and lightness, creating negative and positive space with shadow and light
Iris Van Herpen also drew inspiration from the Danish underwater artists ‘Between Music’ who challenge the relationship between the body and its elemental surround, in a subaquatic environment where air is absent.
Their liquid voices and the subsonic darkness from Between Music overwhelmed me. It motivated me to dive into the contrasts between water and air, between inside and outside, between darkness and lightness.
– Iris van Herpen
Between Music have collaborated with deep sea divers, physicists and neuroscientists over many years to develop a hypnotic biophonic sound sculpture which they perform on custom-built instruments while submerged in water. Their work transcends and transforms the conventional and natural relationship between our bodies and the elements.
I’m doubly fascinated: I feel so free in the water – and at the same time I feel a slight hint of terror. Water is a fantastically exciting element because of its dual nature.
– Leila Skovmand, Between Music
Air and water are the structural and visual components of the eighteen elaborate silhouettes of the collection and have influenced the development of both the textiles and garment construction, which is reflected in their volumes, rippling patterning and translucent layering.
Biomorphic structures include a feathery-light metal lace of geodesic floral patterns in collaboration with Philip Beesley, which float around the body like a silver cloud. Echo waves of mylar bonded cotton ripple across the skin mapping the surface of the body and painting its contours.
The shoes are made from a soft suede with a parametric welded metal heel, creating a delicate molecular lattice around the foot.
Runway Collection
All images courtesy of Iris Van Herpen
Credits
Press: Nicolas Delarue | Karla Otto Paris
Styling: Patti Wilson
Casting: Maida Boina & Maxime Valentini
Make-up: Terry Barber | M.A.C Pro Team
Hair: Martin Cullen | Streeters
Music: AquaSonic by Between Music
Collaborating artist: Philip Beesley
Creative consultant: Jerry Stafford & Salvador Breed
Press release: Jerry Stafford & Eugene Rabkin
Show direction: Kim Vos & Michelle den Hollander | Bdifferent
Installation production: Jonas Kraft
Show production: SixUp Paris | N6
Light design: Magnum | Olivier Boissières
Video registration: Stylianos Pangalos & Frequin
Video editing: Ryan McDaniels & Salvador Breed
Backstage video: Stylianos Pangalos | ADM
Frontstage photography: Yannis Vlamos
Backstage photography: Morgan O Donovan & Molly SJ Lowe
Iris Van Herpen
Tags: architectural, Artisans, arts crafts, collection, Couture, exclusive works, fabrics, fashion, fashion design, fashion designers, Haute Couture, Iris van Herpen, Paris, Paris Fashion Week, structure, texture, what we love
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