The Autumn/Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection of Maison Margiela was presented at the House’s Parisian headquarters as part of Paris Couture Week
Through its ongoing study of seductions in the millennial era, Maison Margiela arrives at an image of nomadic glamour. The Autumn/Winter 2018 ‘Artisanal’ Collection observes a parallel between the timeless spartan wanderer and the perpetually-connected follower of the technological age.
Creative director John Galliano detects and portrays a new tribe, the ‘neo-digital natives’, and expresses his idea of a nomadic glamour through cuts, volumes and layers.
LOOK 1 – A coral foam skirt cut into the motif of a jacket, worn with a black tulle tube dress and a putty-colored trench coat. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 2 – A yellow sleeveless wool coat upholstered with wadding, with yellow sleeveless twill lining, with a tied front transformed into a bow. Pump shoes.
LOOK 3 – A jacket in fabric made from dévoré satin bonded to spacer and black tulle, worn over green nylon puffa jacket front panels on lilac foam, with a polyurethane skirt, a cardboard-colored organza pin-tuck, a décortiqué silver wool trench coat with a honey-colored yak fur trim, and a black scratch. Platform Tabi shoes.
LOOK 4 – A blue nylon dress, cut and upholstered, worn with a shark grey men’s trouser cut into shorts. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 5 – A coral foam jacket worn over a polyurethane skirt, a tan tube, a pistachio foam bustier, a black foam bustier, a foam t-shirt, a black cotton trench coat transformed into a dress, and turquoise Velcro belt. Pump shoes.
LOOK 6 – A pistachio foam coat with a sleeve bow and Velcro closure, worn with a black knit tube dress with a turquoise neck. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 7 – A fuchsia nylon jumper with a turquoise neck worn over two foam bustiers cinched with a yellow Velcro belt, the front panel of an orange nylon puffa jacket, a foam jacket with irregular stitching and stocking detailing, and cardboard-colored pin-tuck pleated skirt with a turquoise nylon knit tube top. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 8 – A jacket with chiffon front and back and tweed sleeves cut into the motif of a swimming suit, worn over a polyurethane shift dress, a décortiqué yak fur coat, and a blue knit tube dress. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 9 – A khaki canvas jacket cut into the motif of another jacket with a capitonnage back and front panels tied into a scarf, worn with a polyurethane shift dress with an x-ray motif, and a turquoise knit tube dress. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 10 – A double-breasted covert men’s coat transformed into a cape worn over an oversized dark wool blazer, with an orange strap. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 11 – A pink tulle skirt with a grey tube stocking top worn with a classic wool jacket, a décortiqué trench coat with a yak fur trim, a polyurethane skirt with an orange foam wrap, and a yellow scratch. Pump shoes.
LOOK 12 – A blazer transformed into a cape worn over a polyurethane shift dress with an x-ray motif and a black quilted bin-liner skirt, tied with an orange scratch through an orange passe-poil. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 13 – An oversized caban in fabric made from felted sustainable wool on organza commissioned from Claudy Jonstra. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 14 – A Yami Kawaii print skirt transformed into a cape and cut into the motif of a bikini, worn with a grey stocking tube and a black body. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 15 – A tan tulle tube worn over the front piece of a man’s jacket in lining and a metallic organza pleated skirt transformed into a dress featuring a jacket motif sewn onto the pleats with décortiqué detailing in the memory of a man’s jacket. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 16 – A quilted trench puffa coat worn over the front panels of a blue nylon quilted puffa jacket, the front panels of a yellow quilted bin-liner puffa jacket, and a teal blue foam front with Velcro seams attached to the back panel of a trench puffa jacket. Underneath, a wool pea coat with Velcro seems attached to the back panels of a crin coat, the front panels of a blue nylon puffa coat with Velcro seams attached to an oversized wool pea coat, and an oversized black foam coat with seams attached to a khaki trench coat at the back. Platform Tabi shoes.
LOOK 17 – A turqoise nylon knit tube worn with a yellow nylon knit tube and a black stretch tulle tube with the memory of a trench coat elements in black crin and black foam. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 18 – A nude tulle stocking tube worn with a cardboard-colored organza pin-tuck pleated dress cut in the motif of a men’s coat, a polyurethane shift dress, and a Ge Ba dress. Platform Tabi shoes.
LOOK 19 – An oversized cape with an upholstery print embossed with a quilting effect worn over a bi-color organza slip dress and a grey stocking tube. Platform Tabi shoes.
LOOK 20 – An oversized turquoise foam coat worn with a décortiqué trench coat with a yak fur trim and a pink nylon knit tube. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 21 – A pink crin coat with apricot-colored plume worn over an off-white cotton dress, a green organza dress, and a plated lame and jersey top. A black scratch closure. Pump shoes.
LOOK 22 – A light blue bouclé jacket bonded onto a blanket made from spacer, wool and crin, worn over a lilac foam bustier and a pistachio-colored foam bustier. Underneath, the front panel of a puffa bonded together from spacer, green wool and pink and green polyurethane, worn over a lilac and lilac wool jacket, a cardboard-colored organza pin-tuck skirt, a pink organza slip dress, and a light blue crin shift dress. Tied together with a black scratch. Platform Tabi shoes.
LOOK 23 – A nylon knit and metallic organza spliced dress worn under a blue nylon knit tube. Pump shoes.
LOOK 24 – A tan tulle tube worn with polyurethane skirt with cardboard-coloured Japanese paper encasing, a polyurethane bustier, a cardboard-colored t-shirt with pin-tuck pleats cut into the motif of a safari jacket, a polyurethane shift dress with an x-ray motif, and a Ge Ba patchwork dress. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 25 – A recycled foam blanket with a trench over-layer featuring the memory of a caban stitching and décortiqué pocket and lapel detailing, worn with a Klein blue scratch. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 26 – An oversized coat made from fabric needle-punched together from recycled silk scarves and felt, further needle-punched with vintage slip dresses forming the memory of a slip dress motif, worn over a Ge Ba dress with a Klein blue scratch and a bolster reinterpreted as a scarf. Pump shoes.
LOOK 27 – A painted lilac foam cape cut into the motif of a bustier dress, with a black Velcro closure, worn with a polyurethane shift dress, a grey stocking tube dress, a yellow and blue organza slip dress, and lilac tulle gloves. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 28 – A black full-length felt cape asymmetrically cut into the motif of a morning coat, with a Velcro-closure neck, worn with a polyurethane shift dress and a fuchsia long-sleeved knit dress with a turquoise neck. Mary Jane platform shoes.
LOOK 29 – A black satin and white cotton sleeping bag with wadding wrapped over a polyurethane skirt, a black oversized denim skirt, and a black body, tied with a Klein blue scratch. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 30 – A grey and tan stocking tubes worn over a crin puffa jacket stuffed with down feathers, comprised of multiple puffa jackets sewn together at the hems. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 31 – An oversized white coat worn with a blue quilted bin-liner skirt and a red scratch. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
LOOK 32 – A canvas cape with a chiffon overlay featuring the memory of capitonnage print, worn with a pillow, a bolster and an oversized backpack, and a plumed crin trench coat worn as a headpiece. Dipped in silicone, platform shoes.
All images courtesy of Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela
www.maisonmargiela.com
Maison Margiela is a French fashion house founded in Paris in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela. Both masculine and feminine, oftentimes fusing the two genders, the brand’s universe can be described as conceptual and enigmatic, mysterious and iconoclast. Today, the House is recognized internationally for its unique approach to modern elegance. Since 2014, the Maison thrives under the guidance of Creative Director Mr. John Galliano. He reveals a new aesthetic, marrying his own poetic vision with the codes of the house of Margiela.
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