Taking Control

Change is all around and influencing this season’s exciting trends, as innovative textiles and trims emerge in creating a new and appealing offering. Society is changing, we are a global society with a voice to be heard, and the growth populism confirms what the sports industry already new: the consumer is in control.

This continues to influence the sustainability sector, as a host of clean technology and alternative ingredients come through. A change in thinking and revamping existing concepts into new ideas is key. Now is the time to juggle the high performance ingredients available and change the recipe, to deliver stimulating and innovative products. ISPO TEXTRENDS’ vision for Fall/Winter 2019/20 color and textile trends has incorporated the need for change, but also a need for reassurance, creativity and new ideas. Embrace yourselves for a rip-roaring transition in the textile industry.

The following trends will describe in detail what designers and product managers are looking for in order to develop their upcoming collections.

TREND I – MULTIPLICITY

This is nature at is best as it continues to influence, be incorporated and inspire a new generation of fabrics and trims through natural resources as well as being taken on board by the synthetic side. The increased interest of the inherent benefits that merino wool, cotton, silk, cashmere as well as the new cellulosic offerings, including seaweed, nettle, milk, can elevate a product to a new luxurious level. A much more balanced approach is being embraced on between the traditionally opposed sectors as they merge to form a high functioning union.

For enhanced performance and protection, synthetics are crucial and the continued hybridization of teaming the best of both worlds, from the natural and synthetic sources is key. The core inspiration is to take on a much softer hand, whether it be knits or wovens. Brushed surfaces, velvet touch and a strong natural nuance work perfectly for base layers, when worn sensually against the skin. For second and outer layers, a softer approach is also taken without neglecting the essential protection of the shell-like facade, essential for eco-friendly membrane and coating technologies.

Sustainability takes a particularly strong direction here, with synthetics being pulled from a recycled source and more efficient virgin productions through to bio synthetics. Clean technology in the textile process pushes this trend, delivering the ultimate in natural touch with added technicity. There is a renewed balance on the ingredients, but one area that needs to be updated is the color, again a natural pool of inspiration but move away from the obvious neutral tones and embrace a more eclectic and organic direction.

FIBERS, YARNS & FINISHES

• BCI cotton and merino wool
• Noble fibers – naturally anti-bacterial silk and cashmere
• Recycled nylon and polyester
• Micro acrylic for thermal aspects
• Alternative cellulosics – modal, milk, nettle, cooper, kapok
• Bio synthetics
• Hybrid insulation – natural and synthetic team up
• Traceable down
• Hollow fibers for lightweight and warmth
• Adaptive treatments that react to the change in temperature
• DWR treatments
• Recycled insulation
• Nano-technology for eco-friendly high functioning finishes and coatings
• Thermal base layers with a super soft touch on the technical side of the fabric for a luxurious feel
• High-level performance in the form of thermal regulation, moisture management and anti odor
• Recycled membranes
• Recycled metal and plastic for trims
• Nano-technology for eco-friendly high functioning finishes and coatings
• Bio mimicry inspires structures and prints but also a new takes on color
• Synthetic biology – reengineering the genetic code
• Water and energy reduction, dyes and additives
• Reflective yarns, prints and coatings

TEXTILES & TRIMS

• Sensational touch to base layers – we are talking sublime in silky aspects with natural ingredients
• Mono and bi-stretch woven for performance denim, canvas and gabardine structures
• High performance denim – comfort and power stretch, thermal, moisture management and anti-stress
• Natural touch down proof ripstops
• Glossy membranes update bases to a natural shine
• Multi colored melange, heather and space dyed – one-dye batch circular and warp knit through to seamless for interesting tonal effects
• Air textured yarns or brushed surfaces add a natural velvet touch to fabrics
• Lightweight fleece in new hybrid blends
• Double knits with contrasting textures and performance – finish with a DWR treatment on the face of the fabric for greater flexibility, eliminating the need for multiple layering
• Double sided knits with wovens
• Organic structures inspire jacquards in power stretch natural/synthetic blends
• Semi-bright fluid jerseys for greater flexibility at the garment development stage
• Bright fluid jersey with a natural glam and super soft touch
• Featherweight knits – as fine as 50 gauge, hosiery-inspired but still delivering performance and a natural touch
• Waterproof, windproof, breathable laminated fabrics for apparel and equipment
• Trims take on a matte appearance, molded, smooth and organic indesign derived from sustainable synthetic and natural resources

TARGET MARKETS

• Lifestyle – the continuation of athleisure combined with a strong style moving through to travel wear
• Outdoor/leisure all aspects
• Base, second and outer layers
• Yoga with a high level of technically but maintaining a natural touch
• High performance base layers for winter sports including skiing, cross country skiing and hiking
• Seamless base layers
• Active intimate apparel

IMAGINE

BALANCE • HYBRIDIZATION • SENSATIONAL TOUCH • CLEAN TECHNOLOGY • BIO MIMICRY

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TREND II – ALGORITHM

Innovation at its best is the concept of this trend as precision performance comes into play. Body mapping technology and targeting key points anatomically within a garment ensures a heightened response with the action and friction of the body with the fabric. Perfection is a key element to this engineered direction, not just in compact high compression fabrics but also through textured alternatives, where there is an acute sense of delivery, for a seamless and smarter performance.

Matte through to bright surface effects feature, with graduated and zoned contrasting function not just being applied to the seamless sector but to at bed textile manufacturing too, which leads the way for a more efficient product manufacturing process. Multiple function and contrasting textural effects can be applied within a single textile construction, engineered for a higher level of morphing of the complimentary functions and contrasting textures and tones.

Clean-cut and heat bonded seams also feature for a smooth and efficient finish, requiring the flexibility of adhesive tapes. Trims feature, again with reduced applications as a smoother, high functioning application is key to the trend. The zoned and targeted direction is a modern approach from the foundation of the textiles to the final products, ensuring a much more efficient manufacturing process and productive performance. This trend is geared for high endurance and enhanced performance, ensuring the wearer achieves their personal goal.

FIBERS, YARNS & FINISHES

• New generation high performance nylon and polyester yarns for intelligent delivery
• Matte/bright yarns contrast for surface detail
• Heat generating hollow yarns
• Polypropylene
• Super strong aramid fibers
• Thermo-chromatic prints, trims and coatings – built in function and detail
• Aramid yarns – super tough but light to touch for targeted anti-stress use
• High powered spandex for compression
• Textured relief rolls through to smooth and compact surfaces
• Far Infrared Yarns – FIR for enhanced circulation and wellbeing
• DWR finishes
• Printed membranes

TEXTILES & TRIMS

• Featherweight fabrics with powerful protection and performance
• High compression warp and circular knits
• Micro light rip stops – anti stress and tear resistant
• Perfect surfaces – compact and precise in rigid and stretch qualities
• Flat bed knits and wovens with pivoted
• Precise textured jacquards and ribs
• Honeycomb structures and rounded precise blister effects
• Optically striated ribs with compression zones
• High performance stretch mesh with graduated compression
• Coated finish via membranes
• Dual finishes – functionality and fashion
• Calendared wax finishes in decorative aspects
• Silicone prints and transfers for locked-in support in strategic areas of stretch fabrics
• Embossed warp knits
• Compact constructions seamlessly moving to openwork or punch-out in single knitted fabrics
• Optically illusive aspects with a strong sense of exactness inrelief
• Zoned performance – an accurate delivery of moisture management, muscle support, anti stress and anti rip in key areas of the same fabric eliminating the need to insert contrasting performance fabrics within a product
• Traditional cut make and trim garment manufacturing is inspired by the seamless sector for a more efficient manufacturing process
• Trims and zippers take on a cleaner and more sophisticated line
• Accurate mesh fabrics – stretch or rigid with built-in performance
• Laser punch out effects for ventilation
• Double knits
• Contrasting knits
• Variable modulus fabrics with selvedge finish or clean cut feature
• Micro light rib stops
• 3-layer outer shells

TARGET MARKETS

• High performance base layers
• Running
• Cross training/gladiator sports – hardcore and high endurance
• Performance denim
• Protective outer shells
• Aerodynamic and anatomically designed garments
• Lightweight soft equipment with a new level of performance

IMAGINE

BODY MAPPING • ACUTE PERFORMANCE • STIMULATION • PRECISION • HIGH LEVEL PERFORMANCE

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TREND III – BLASÉ

Fashion industry and style takes a stronger stake. It is time to break the rules, not conform and delve in to the heady delights of unruliness. Texture comes to the foray whether it be micro or macro, as touch is further enhanced through innovative structures and a playfulness when it comes to design.

The mood for this rebellious spirit sees fractious prints feature, delivering an optically deceptive surface effect. Breaking free from the constraints of normality leads to a renewed fluidity, liveliness and softness, as well as taking on board the graphical options available. Touch is crucial, ranging from crude to supremely soft but all with an impulsive structure. Let the creative license run abound, anything is possible in delivering boundless products full of imagination.

On the ingredient front, performance yarns feature. This is very much a dynamic direction, teaming innovative structures with the top performance yarns on the market. The phrase ‘less is more’ is no longer valid and adhered to, instead it is a case of breaking through boundaries and embracing the core ingredients available in creating collections that have an element of fun and freedom. Fashion and functionality go hand in hand. This trend is set to inspire a strong wellbeing mood and feel good factor.

FIBERS, YARNS & FINISHES

• Bright trilobal yarns catch the light when incorporated into fancy jacquards or classic twill blends
• Aramid fibers for super tough, high tenacity fabrics
• Thermo chromatic yarns and prints for color changing dazzling aspects
• Micro acrylic
• Recycled synthetics
• Thermal yarns
• Lightweight natural and synthetic insulation
• Hollow synthetic yarns
• Temperature regulating yarns and finishes
• Phosphorescent yarns
• Day-Glo prints and heat transfers
• Merino wool for a natural touch
• FIR yarns for a strong sense of wellbeing
• CI cotton

TEXTILES & TRIMS

• Foil prints and reflective prints and coatings
• Macro high performance fleece – verging on a more shearling look
• Performance denim – knit and woven – incorporate high level performance yarns in hybrid blends
• 360° stretch in knits and woven
• Blistered surface effects especially in second and outershells
• Go crazy and contrast unruly structures and printed plain surfaces for innovative 2 layer fabrics
• Openwork jacquards and high performance micro mesh with irregular construction
• Water repellant faux fur
• Emboss sponge like structures
• Bi and multi colored floating effects in jacquard spacers
• Spongey 2 and 2.5 layers – malleable and soft with added print of innovative changing yarn effects
• Snug and fleece knits boded with erratic openwork mesh for contrast
• Prints are wild and optical, 3D in application, finish with a membrane for added protection for outer shells
• Ombre effects from initial intelligent yarn or through prints and coatings
• Cut, bouclé and eyelash yarns for unrivaled textural surfaces in micro through to macro for a more exaggerated look
• Print over textures for a distorted look
• Optically illusive outer shell fabrics – prints and printed coatings creates a 3D effect
• Digital printing

TARGET MARKETS

• Snowboarding
• Base, second and outer layers
• Skateboarding and street sports especially with high tenacity, comfort fit performance denim
• Lifestyle and sportswear collide with functionality and a high fashion styling
• High performance workout wear for the gym and running

IMAGINE

RULE BREAKERS • TACTUAL EXPERIENCE • 3D SURFACES • IMPULSIVE • CRAZY

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TREND IV – NEW ORDER

Basics are updated as a fresh direction comes through. We have the ingredients and it is time to up the ante in developing refreshing new products that maintain the integrity of their predecessors. A new lighter weight delivery is expected higher performance than seen before. This isn’t an optically fancy trend for apparel, it is about quality and durability, it is taking what sells season after season to a new level of functionality and performance. As much as today’s modern sports fabrics are a modern option, this trend is an opportunity to unearth old classics from the outdoors sector, reworked and revived to provide on-trend products for the 21st Century.

The focus is now geared towards a multi functional offering, incorporating a feel good mood teamed with a revival in a retro styling for a reassuring spirit. Key to this trend is a natural touch from pure content, elevated through functional finishes through to highly sophisticated multi-blends and membrane finishing. An organic influences also inspires structures and prints. This is about tweaking what we have and taking bestselling basics to a new level.

The continued trend towards casualization and a higher functionality sees the need for comfort, performance and duality, fueling the ‘lifestyle’ trend, originally outlined by the athleisure market, but now set for a sharper and sophisticated delivery. There is a sharing of knowledge from the past and present, a continuing crossover of sectors in the mood of a kindred spirit, as new materials and trims embrace a feel-good factor combined with the high performance values the we all know in the sports industry.

FIBERS, YARNS & FINISHES

• Natural fiber base, including: merino wool and BCI cotton
• New sustainable natural sources: Lyocell, modal, cupro and kapok
• Noble fibers: silk, cashmere
• Recycled synthetics
• Micro acrylic for lightweight warmth in blends
• Air textured dull synthetic yarns for a grainy touch and natural appearance
• High tenacity yarns release a new level of strength in blends for classic fabrics in lightweights
• Low-heat settable spandex/elastane for comfort when blended with the low heat natural fibers
• Cooling yarns and finishes
• Heat generating yarns
• Lightweight thermal for warmth
• Functional finishes – update basics with thermal regulation, cool touch, anti-bacterial for modern-day function

TEXTILES & TRIMS

• Update basic bestsellers – inject a new lease of life
• Natural touch lightweight knits for base layers with a high level of performance
• Double knits
• 3-layer outer shells, contrast knits with wovens with multi functional membrane technology
• Lightweight features in accessories and trims
• Look to a retro mood for elastic narrows and trims
• Corduroy is essential but incorporate hi-tenacity yarns for a tough finish and consider comfort stretch qualities
• Performance denim gets tough for urban sports and general longevity -consider cotton/spandex and high tenacity nylon hybrid blends but maintainan authentic look
• Traditional country tweeds are brought back in to the fold, updated through innovative blending, eco friendly membranes and colored coating for a twist -age old classics revisited and more importantly revived
• Yarn dyed shirting – consider hollow synthetic yarns blended with cotton for lightweight warmth
• Brushed woven for a moleskin finish
• Dry touch fleeces and interlock
• Authentic-look high tenacity performance denim
• Traditional yarn dyed plaid with high level performance
• Water repellant faux fur and shearling
• DWR finishes on classic gabardine and twill – add high tenacity yarns and spandex for lightweight comfort fit
• Lightweight outer shells with powder touch coatings and protection
• Cotton-touch jersey using new generation synthetics
• Eco-Friendly membranes and coatings
• Reduced water dyeing processes
• Reflective aspects are reworked in prints, coatings and trims – consider a highperformance tweed printed refective technology
• Soft and reassuring touch to snug fleeces and wovens

TARGET MARKETS

• Base, second and outer layer plus socks and accessories
• Lifestyle
• Urban sports
• Casual outdoors
• Country sports
• Ski/snowboarding
• Soft Equipment, tents and sleeping-bags

IMAGINE

REASSURANCE • CLASSICS UPDATED • FUNCTIONALITY • SAFETY

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TREND V – SYSTEMATIC

The innovation in artificial intelligence and the pioneering developments in IT inspires this direction to deliver what was previously regarded as the unthinkable. Anything is possible in our data-laden world, as smart technology inspires materials and trims. We need to open up to new ideas, a new way of thinking for the industry to create opportunities for the future. As automation manages many tasks in our lives, we now need to look at how textiles and trims can become automated. Consider fabrics that self-heal/repair, self-clean, react to extreme circumstances or connect to other systems. This isn’t a dream, the reality is underway, but until micro robotics become integrated into the actual textiles, for now the development in a more intelligent approach to textiles with the ingredients we have and the latest machinery. We are getting closer than expected.

Smart textiles feature in a gallant style as fabrics react to varying situations offer the highest level of protection and performance in the lightest of weights. There is a reactive synergy between the wearer and the garment and safety equipment. This is about developing a strong defense system that can be layered up, offering energizing and comfort aspects in responsive base layers to outer layer textiles that lock and protect on impact. Tough yet technical, wovens in micro light structures for down-proof outer shells to lightweight options for tents, sleeping bags and soft equipment feature in the lightest of weights.

Micro encapsulated yarns and finishes take on a revival, working new energizing and clean ingredients that deliver a sense of well-being to the wearer and enhancing the wearer in the peak of their performance or through recovery stages. Thermal regulation also undergoes a new look, emerging in innovative yarns and finishes in super light featherweight knits. SYSTEMATIC is just the start of this textile revolution, expect to see developments that will take us one step closer to automated garments and accessories.

FIBERS, YARNS & FINISHES

• Fine denier synthetics – going very lightweight but still packing in the performance and fit
• Micro fiber synthetic spider silk with embedded technology
• Color refracting yarns and coatings
• Rainbow reflectivity – trims and finishes
• Tone-on-tone reflectivity
• Digital camouflage/striated effects through coatings and jacquard spacers
• Digital prints
• Sensory technology applied to heat transfers or embedded in trims – tracking the temperature of the wearer
• High tenacity yarns
• Deluster prints and coatings – take the bright bases down a level
• Phosphorescent yarns
• Colored reflective yarns
• Micro encapsulated yarns delivering ingredients and enhancement to the wearer
• Micro sensors embedded in fabrics and trims

TEXTILES & TRIMS

• RFID accessories – embedded into trims
• Metallic and neon prints and yarn – especially in trims
• Wearable technology
• Embossed double layers for decorative protection – faux channels and forms eliminate the need for top stitching through heat sealing techniques
• Sensors to stimulate the wearer – enhance circulation, massage or position in key points that need warmth or alternative protection
• FIR insulation – warmth and wellbeing
• Intelligent fabrics – responsive, reactive, protective
• High gloss synthetics through to patina effects
• Silicon coatings and foam – locked protection on impact
• Iridescent coatings and membranes
• Pure and compact structures
• High tenacity super light fabrics
• Optically illusive surface effects
• Molecular structured jacquards and mesh in hosiery – styled synthetic knits
• High performance base layers
• PU tapes for heat bonded seams
• Smart fabrics that react to the body’s movement – protecting, cooling,warming whatever the wearer needs uper tear-resistant and anti abrasive fabrics
• Micro sheer, super power stretch mesh
• Lightweight spacer fabrics
• Ultra lightweight shells
• Responsive and reactive finishes to warmth and activity

TARGET MARKETS

• Protective apparel and hardware Outdoor protection
• Elite level performance
• Luxury level lifestyle and ski wear
• High level team sports – soccer, rugby, ice hockey
• Road cycling
• Wearable technology
• Impact resistant sports helmets and body equipment

IMAGINE

CONFIDENCE • NEW IDEAS • CUTTING-EDGE • FUTURISTIC • TOP LEVEL

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ISPO TEXTRENDS shows where the future in performance textile and components will lead us. A great inspiration for your business.

All trend information and images are courtesy of ISPO TEXTRENDS.

For more information please visit:
ISPO MUNICH – textrends.ispo.com/en/

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