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TREND SPARK! Week 7 | 07.03.2008


By Alexandra Suhner, London Editor | Week 7 | 07.03.2008

Show Spark!

The fashion weeks are over and now we can start to make sense of all the clothing that has been coming down the catwalks over the past few weeks. Trends are certainly becoming harder to identify, and, it seems now more than ever, designers who currently have flawless standings amongst the press (Prada, Balenciaga, Lanvin) will dictate the trends because everyone is afraid to say they might be off the mark. I am going to discuss some Autumn Winter 2008/2009 collections over the next two weeks, New York and London this week, and next week Paris and Milan. I am focussing on designers whom I think have presented collections that will be relevant for the upcoming seasons. Its not really about what I love, but more what I think will be successful.

New York | Jonathon Saunders

New York | DKNY

Jonathon SaundersI graduated with Jonathon and will never forget how beautiful his graduation collection was. Flowing kaftan style pieces (designed by Marios Schwab, who was in the year below him at the time) with the most incredible vibrant prints.

I have felt that his collections since have never come close to matching the beauty and desirability of his first catwalk collection. This season Jonathon has matured and presented a collection that is classic, sexy and very on the mark. The mermaid silhouettes ending mid-calf are a great silhouette for Autumn Winter and a refreshing change from all of the baby doll, voluminous cuts everywhere else.

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DKNY If you are, however, going to do all of the voluminous baby doll cuts, than DKNY has shown the way forward. The collection of layered, effortless pieces looked very retro but fresh at the same time.

The collection was fun and full of must-have dresses for both day and evening. The look will great for fall, layering easy, playful pieces with a touch of print, metallic, or vibrant vintage colours, and a statement coat.And by the way, I loved Michael Kors, but Halston was a huge disappointment, they have a lot of work to do if they want to come close to living up to the legendary name!

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London | Giles

London | Gareth Pugh

GilesHis autumn Winter Collection featured some amazing jewel-toned puffa pieces shaped into futuristic silhouettes and adorned with geometric silhouettes.

His color palette was very wintery without using too much black and the fabrics had a great contrast between shiny, matte, and textured.

The godets were amazing, structured to give enormous volume, this is the sort of look that will be perfect for eveningwear.

Photo via
Gareth Pugh

OK, maybe not the most wearable of collections but his robotic Wizard of Oz look is almost like a contemporary Thierry Mugler. The greys worked perfectly with the structured tailoring and could easily be toned down to make powerful tailored day wear and outerwear. He also used some interesting topstitching and although the goat hair was maybe a bit over the top in some pieces, it makes for a nice alternative to mink or fox. He is a long way off from creating a commercial collection but there is definitely potential here to find some key pieces if you're winter wardrobe is about keeping yourself warm and intimidating.

Big disappointments of the week were definitely Marios Schwab, who created tube dresses that were impossible to walk in properly and with no flare, and Henry Holland, whose collection looked unprofessional and cheap, despite the presence of his friend and super Agyness Deyn.

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