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Pure London February 2012

Pure London February 2012

By Carol AQUINO

London Editor

[London], February 29, 2012 - The Autumn/Winter edition of Pure London took place at the beginning of last week and brought forward some interesting ideas for the next season's trends.



Although there were still many exhibitors showcasing Summer collections - perhaps on a bid to attract buoyant foreign markets from South America, Oceania or countries with more tropical climates - there were some much visible key trends emerging from the trade show's stalls.

With the presence of summer clothing among several exhibitors' collections, the show looked quite colorful and this could have been perceived as a hint towards a more colorful winter season.

However, as we looked through the autumn clothing only, we noticed that colors seem to be flowing in the same direction as this year's collections, with a prevalence of black, grays, beiges and nudes. Hints of mustardy yellow and forest green, several shades of pink - going from the blushy nude until very deep fuchsias - and a deep cherry red were also present throughout.

Rare Chiffon Pleat Skater Dress
Rare Chiffon Pleat Skater Dress
Skater dress by Rare. Crafted from lightweight chiffon. Featuring a scoop neckline and fitted body with a sleeveless finish, with a zip fastening to the back, a fitted waistband and an accordion pleated mini length skirt. Photo courtesy of ASOS. Buy this item at ASOS.com
Dresses reigned supreme throughout the trade show, and the same can be said about the midi length, present in almost every single stall. Fine accordion pleats were also consistently present, and it was quite interesting to see the new takes wholesalers were giving to this style.


Most spotted were accordion pleats in skirts/dresses that evolved into thicker pleats around hip length or pleats starting at hip length, a move to shake the monopoly of the waist as being the main focal point of garments. Still, there were plenty of waist-based garments and, interestingly, most of them were conceived with elasticated waists (including some trousers, in paperbag style).

Long skirts and dresses were also present, as well as asymmetric hemlines - the most common still being the train style (with a shorter front and longer back).

Collar details were seen among several stalls but they seem to have lost their strength. The same can be said about figure-hugging dresses, with A-line or flowy skirts prevailing.

Prints came in all shapes and sizes, with geometrical ones being the most present. Flower prints (in both large and smaller, Liberty-style) in darker hues were also used, as well as an array of novelty prints, including animals such as beetles, butterflies or even giraffes. Other novelty prints included cars, circus and even Hawaiian dancing ladies, stating that Autumn clothing can also be fun as Summer.

Lace was the fabric of choice not just for detailing and composition; several lace garments were the highlight of some stalls and the peek-a-boo effect was used by several wholesalers. Flowy/light fabrics and knitwear were also present, and gave the overall effect of a very romantic yet mild Autumn/Winter.

Taking into account the presence of summer clothing in some stalls and the overall collections wholesalers presented at Pure London, the bet seems to verge into a mild Autumn/Winter next year. The lack of thicker, heavier outerwear and darker colors gave the trade show a somewhat 'transitional' effect. This can be taken into account yet another outcome of the most recent economic recession or, still, may just be a reflection of previous low sales of proper winter garments. We will only have the answers when the Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collections hit the shelves.
Rare Chiffon Pleat Skater Dress Max C Peter Pan Collar Pleated Dress
Jovonnista Pleat Dress
Pleat dress by Jovonnista. Crafted in a lightweight chiffon fabric. Featuring a round neckline, cut-away shoulders with sleeveless styling, and accordion pleats to the main with a double tier fluted hem. Designed with a mini cut length. Buy this item at ASOS.com
Max C Peter Pan Collar Pleated Dress
Pleated dress by Max C London. Featuring a Peter Pan collar, sleeveless style, fitted waist with a pleated finish to the skirt, keyhole design to reverse and a button closure. Buy this item at ASOS.com


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