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Fall 2009 Couture Shows

By Katie PITMAN

London Reporter
Armani Privé - Kim Noorda (VIVA)
Photo by Marcio Madeira
Courtesy of Style.com
Chanel - Sasha Pivovarova (IMG)
Photo: Monica Feudi / Gorunway.com
Courtesy of Style.com

The Paris Fall 2009 couture shows were all about glamour; sophisticated glamour, old Hollywood glamour and glamour-puss.


The cinema seemed to influence several designers and seductive screen sirens were dictating next season's looks.

Giorgio Armani, influenced by black-and-white movie heroines, executed his Armani Privé collection with an element of underground secrecy, and although the ambiance was dark and mysterious each and every garment shone. From the flashes of midnight blue to the large silver bauble earrings and necklaces and essentially, the thousands of beads, sequins and crystals, the collection was radiant.

The show started with several chic, black and steel grey pantsuits, all detailed in contemporary styling with large diamante buttons, rounded pagoda shoulders, big soft bows and pleated trousers. Meticulous craftsmanship was more than evident with these exquisite details, glistening paillettes and long exposed embellished zips.

Jean Paul Gaultier - Karlie Kloss (NEXT)
Photo by Monica Feudi / Gorunway.com
Courtesy of Style.com
Pants further left a lasting impression with several silver and nude mesh crystal-embellished jumpsuits, ending the show on an unexpected climax.

As a true couturier, Armani's timeless pieces included skirt suits, cocktail dresses and long slim evening gowns all of which exuded delicate charm and elegance, but the real glamour-puss emerged in animal print lamé bodycon dresses, plunging necklines, cutaway dresses and sheer see-through fabrics.

Also inspired by the cinema and heroine actresses from all origins, Jean Paul Gaultier's themed show was that of old Hollywood glamour. With movie soundtracks and the stage designed as a film set, the models were extremely reminiscent of legendary movie stars.

Long, black superwoman style caped coats floated down the catwalk and regal floor length gowns with voluptuous fur trimmings demanded attention. The looks were fierce with gangster inspired pinstriped suits and matching thigh high boots and a military style body with accentuated sharp shoulders, matching cape and also corresponding thigh high boots.

The real superstars of the show were two structured bodies; one resembling Barbarella in shiny silver metallic with a large oversized fur coat and the other, a Boadicea armored style body in a soft grey and flowing silk cape to one side, were both powerful, provocative and sexy. And if that wasn't enough tantalizing glamour for one show, feathers, PVC trench coats and stockings made of filmstrips left me craving for more.

At Chanel, the key feature and no doubt future trend for next season was hemlines.

Karl Lagerfield reinvented a number of his classic skirt suits and dresses with long panels, some trailing behind, others just skimming the floor. One in particular stood out as a Louboutin-esque deep red on the underneath panel of a navy blue suit.

Signature tweed skirt suits were glamorized with lace tights, hats and gloves, matching brogue booties and polished off with long droplet earrings. Top to toe embellishment was exuberant with entirely sequin dresses and back panels, to more subtle pearls and crystals scattered on sheer hats and right down to the tip of a flowing train.

Multicolor sequin circular designs were also an occurring trend and a black tailored blazer with prominent shoulders, heavily embellished with strands of crystals, pearls, beads and sequins conjured up images of the late Michael Jackson, fitting for an honorary tribute.

Galliano's inspiration for Fall 2009 was from none other than (and who better than) Monsieur Christian Dior himself. The house focused on their founding values, reputation and ultimately what they do best. Half-dressed models wore 1950's vintage style lingerie with either a skirt or a jacket bursting with intense color.

Sheer stockings, transparent petticoats, flesh colored girdles and lace bras peeked through florescent raspberry or lime jackets and a bold orange satin skirt.

Womanly glamour was in all its glory with nipped in waists and corsetry highlighting curvy hips and an hourglass figure, all polished off with immaculate makeup, bright pink glossy lips and pearls.

The garments commanded attention and every inch of floral embroidery, crystal detail and silk bow was flawlessly placed.

To see all the Fall 2009 Couture shows please visit www.style.com


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